Can You Buy A New Battery For Iphone 6

Last week, Apple reduced the price of out-of-warranty iPhone battery replacements from $79 to $29, following a wave of controversy over power management features in older iPhones. In a note to customers, Apple said its new policy applied to "anyone with an iPhone 6 or later whose battery needs to be replaced", but failed to specify if this eligibility criteria was dependent on whether a given iPhone failed an official Genius Bar diagnostic test.

can you buy a new battery for iphone 6

This morning, French tech blog iGeneration reported that an internal Apple Store memo has been circulated which states that if a customer asks for a battery replacement on an iPhone 6 or later, then the Genius Bar should allow it, even if their phone passes Apple's own diagnostic test.

Apple has since independently confirmed to MacRumors that it will agree to replace an eligible battery for a $29 fee, regardless of whether an official diagnostic test shows that it is still able to retain less than 80 percent of its original capacity. The concession appears to have been made to mollify the anger of customers stoked by headlines suggesting that Apple artificially slows down older iPhones to drive customers to upgrade to newer models.

Anecdotal reports also suggest that customers who paid $79 to have their battery replaced before the new pricing came into effect on Saturday, December 30, will receive a refund from Apple upon request. Please let us know of your own experiences in the comments below.

In response to that kerfuffle, Apple offered $29 replacement batteries for select older iPhone models throughout 2018. However, Apple did not stop throttling older iPhones. The difference is, it'll actually tell you about it now. And by tell, I mean, you can go looking for the info in your iPhone's battery settings.

Is your iPhone's battery capacity bad enough that it needs a replacement? That can be a scary process for your expensive life-line to all connectivity, especially if you're quarantined at home. And it isn't cheap. It costs $49 for iPhones from models 6 up to 8, as well as the old and new SE versions, or $69 for the X, XS, XS Max, XR and all iPhone 11 models, if you go through Apple(Opens in a new window).

Before you decide, make sure to dig into the data about your iPhone's battery to determine if the replacement is even warranted. Rest assured, if you hang onto your iPhone long enough, it will be warranted eventually.

The Battery Health option exists to provide the smallest modicum of transparency about the capacity of an iPhone's battery, and if iOS is crippling iPhone performance. Supposedly, iOS will only throttle the power to the CPU if your battery is below 100 percent capacity and it has one unexpected shutdown.

In iOS 11.3 or later go to Settings > Battery. At the bottom, Apple now includes lovely bar graphs showing your iPhone battery-charge levels and screen activity over the last 24 hours or 10 days.

You can also see the full battery usage per app. That's a nice way to determine if some app is in the background sucking up all the juice, but mostly it's about activity time. (You can toggle back and forth between Activity and Battery Usage.)

Above those, tap Battery Health. This is the area of importance. Next to Maximum Capacity is a percentage of how much your battery can currently hold in comparison to when it was brand new. The lower it is, the worse things are for all the lithium-ion inside holding the power.

Peak Performance Capability is the one to watch. It might say "Your battery is currently supporting normal peak performance." That means it is, as Data used to say on Star Trek, functioning within normal parameters.

However, it might say "This iPhone has experienced an unexpected shutdown because the battery was unable to deliver the necessary peak power. Performance management has been applied to help prevent this from happening again."

You may also see a message that says your iPhone battery's health can't be determined, or that it is so sufficiently degraded that now is the time for you to replace it. That generally won't happen until the maximum capacity is lower than 80 percent after 500 complete charge cycles(Opens in a new window) (read more about that in our story about battery myths).

With the iOS 11.3 update, Apple locked apps out of looking at the battery capacity or charge cycle number. Way to keep it transparent, Cupertino. However, for more details on what's happening inside the iPhone, download an app like Lirum Device Info Lite. It doesn't look at battery info, but does chart the ups and downs of your iPhone chip's performance under This Device > CPU > CPU Actual Clock (versus the CPU Maximum Clock; you want to see the same number for both). You'll be able to see performance changes in real time.

If you're interested in counting exactly how many charge cycles your iPhone (or iPad or iPod touch) have been through, that's not easy to find but there are desktop apps that can help. CoconutBattery 3 for macOS or the $35 iBackupBot for Windows can pull data from an iDevice connected to a PC and display the "cycle count" number, among other data. At anything over 500 charges, your iPhone battery has seen better days; for iPad the number is more like 1,000 cycles (it has a bigger battery).

So what's the criteria for getting a new battery? Certainly, consider it if you see the performance management kick in too often or the Lirum Device Info app displays a significant downgrade in the CPU Actual Clock number. Definitely upgrade if the iPhone's own Peak Performance Capability says your battery health is "significantly degraded."

If you're brave and/or cheap, get the iFixit battery replacement kit option. Otherwise, you may have to live with the problem until the 2020 quarantine comes to end, or until you mail-order your next complete iPhone upgrade.

I bought my iPhone 13 Pro in november and it had 100% until the end of april when it dropped to 99%. It had been like that for a while then suddenly dropped to 95% and after 2 weeks i saw it dropped again by 1%. Also it started to have running problems and I think all that is from the last update, after the update I saw the big battery life drop

The first step is to completely drain your iPhone battery. You can do so during normal usage. If you want to speed up the process, you can play a long video on YouTube with the volume turned up to the maximum level.

No lithium-ion battery lasts forever: As your iPhone ages, declines in battery life can cause unexpected shutdowns or render your device too slow to function. While Apple now has a number of ways you can address this problem including a new Battery Health section in Settings, if your battery has dropped below peak capacity, it's worth considering a replacement.

If you have any other questions about swapping out your iPhone 6s's battery, or if you find this iPhone 6s repair too complicated to attempt on your own, check out iMore's repair partner iFixYouri online at www.ifixyouri.com or at 888-494-4349.

Let me show you how I replaced my iPhone 6 battery. After about a year of use, the phone didn't last long at all. I use my phone for work and I'm depending on good battery life. I bought the highest rated iPhone 6 battery kit from Amazon (iPhone 6 battery kit) for $30 and it worked out great! This kit was just slightly more expensive than others but based on the company's previous batteries who all had great reviews I decided to go with this. Now my phone lasts about a day and a half with heavy usage. The batteries are also sold on their site: www.scandi.tech

Before I begin I want to say that almost all screws inside the iPhone 6 are of different lengths. It's extremely important that each screw is put back into its correct place. If you mix up screws, it's better to proceed with the battery replacement without them. If you put the wrong screw in the wrong hole, it can damage the phone's logic board! On Step 3 I show how I organized my screws. If you keep track of the screws, the changing the battery should not be a very difficult project.

Step 2: Unscrew the metal plate on top of the battery connector and remove the metal plate with you fingers or the tweezers.Disconnect the battery's connector underneath the plate with a plastic tool. The connector will come loose easily with very little force.

Step 3: I removed the front assembly from the phone completely. You can proceed without removing the front assembly but once again, the cables can tear if the front is not held carefully. If the cables tear, a new front assembly costs around $100. To remove the front assembly unscrew the five screws holding the top metal plate and put the screws and the plate aside.Disconnect the LCD, touch, front camera/sensor and home button connectors with a plastic tool, just like you disconnected the battery connector in the previous step.

Step 4: There are a few ways to proceed with the battery removal. The battery is held in place with two strips of STRONG adhesive. These adhesive strips can be pulled out from underneath the phone. If they tear, the battery will have to be pried/levered out (see 1st and 5th picture) from the LEFT side of the phone (NOT against the logic board). You can heat the back side of the phone with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive, the battery will come out easier this way.

I levered the battery's left corner upwards and pulled the adhesive out along the battery's left side. Doing it this way will reduce the risk of the adhesive tearing. You can also pull the adhesive straight down, towards the charging port, but like I said, it tears easier that way. Once the adhesive is out, the battery can be removed with your fingers.

Step 5: Put new adhesive in place and put the battery on top of it. If your battery did not come with adhesive, regular tape is fine. Take a piece of tape and make a loop out of it with the sticky side out. Put the loop of tape in the same place where the old adhesive was and press the battery down with your fingers. 041b061a72